Here's how to make a leaf for a dining room table that blends perfectly with the original.
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Time Multiple Days
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$100 - $200
Introduction
Learn to build a custom DIY dining table leaf to add extra seating for holiday gatherings and dinner parties.
A friend recently told me their family has a beautiful dining table, but no one knows where the leaf extensions are. I said, “Send me a picture—maybe I can make them for you.” When I received the image, I was struck by the table’s beauty. What a shame the leaves were missing. I immediately messaged back: “Bring me the table. I’m pretty sure I can make replacement leaves that match.” I love a good challenge, and thought it would be great to share this one with you.
Before taking on a project like this, there are a few things to consider. First, examine the edge profile of the existing table—detailed edges may require a specific router bit or molding to replicate, so avoid tables with complicated profiles you can’t recreate. Next, try to identify the wood species. If you’re unsure, choose something with a similar grain pattern and do a stain test, since different species absorb stain differently. Finally, test your stain and varnish on a sample piece to see if you can match the table’s color and tone. If a perfect match isn’t possible, consider creating a complementary contrast instead. One more tip: stain all your wood before assembly so you don’t have to wait for it to dry mid-build. Ready? Let’s build some leaves.
Project Overview
Cutting list
| PART | QTY | SIZE |
| A | 2 | 3/4″ x 1-1/2″ x 34″ |
| B | 4 | 3/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 34″ |
| C | 1 | 3/4″ x 5-1/2″ x 34″ |
| D | 2 | 3/4″ x 3″ x 22-1/2″ |
| E | 2 | 3/4″ x 2-5/8 ” x 22-1/2″ |
| F | 2 | 11/16″ x 3/4″ x 22-1/2″* |
* – with 30-degree bevel
Tools Required
- 23-gauge pin nailer
- Biscuit joiner
- Colored wax pencil
- Digital angle finder
- Dowel centers
- Drill
- Drill bits
- Measuring tape
- Miter saw
- Paint brush
- Track saw
Materials Required
- #10 Wood Biscuits
- 1" 23ga. pins
- 1/4" dowel pins
- 3 - 1x6x8' oak
- Assorted sandpaper
- CA glue (Medium thickness)
- Oil-based polyurethane
- Shop rags
- Wood filler
- Wood glue
- Wood stain
Project step-by-step (7)
Open the table to determine leaf measurements
Open the table to its full capacity, then measure the width of the table and the opening between its two halves. Your leaf should match the width of the table and be 1-1/2- to 2-in. narrower than the table opening. For example, if your table opens 24-in. wide (like ours), make your leaf 22-1/2-in. wide at the biggest to ensure there is enough room to slide the leaf in and out with ease.
Assemble the slats
With the dimensions of your leaf determined:
- Cut the slats (A, B, and C) to width. Leave them an inch or two long, so you can make clean end cuts after they’ve been glued together.
- Using a biscuit joiner to cut corresponding slots for #10 wood biscuits in each slat (A, B, and C) of the table leaf.
- Once biscuit slots have been cut, dry fit the slats (A, B, and C) together to ensure the biscuits line up.
- After the dry fit, glue up the middle slat section of the leaf (A, B, and C). Use clamps to ensure a tight fit and prevent curling. Don’t stress if the ends don’t line up perfectly; you will be able to cut them flush to exact dimensions after the glue is dry.
- Once the biscuit joints have dried, unclamp the glued-up slats and clean up excess glue and squeeze out. Test-fit the slats in the actual table and mark where to trim the ends of the slats.
- Trim the slat ends (A, B, and C) to their final length.
Attach end caps
Using a biscuit joiner, attach the end caps (D) to both ends of the slat section (A, B, and C) that has already been assembled. Mark for biscuits, cut the biscuit slots, dry-fit, and glue up with plenty of clamps.
When clamping the end caps (D) in place, be sure not to apply too much pressure, as the end caps (D) may rise, creating an uneven surface. Use as many clamps as needed to ensure the slats (A, B, and C) and endcaps (D) stay flat as they are glued up.
Transfer dowel locations
On most tables, dowels are used to index the leaf in place and ensure it doesn’t move during use. Start by ensuring the top surface of the glued-up slats (A, B, and C) and endcaps (D) panel is flush with the table surface. If it’s not, shim it up.
Then, use dowel centers and a colored wax pencil to transfer the exact placement of the dowel pins on both sides of your table to your new leaf. Drill holes for new dowels where you have marked, keeping in mind that they won’t be centered if you are building your leaf with thinner lumber than the actual table top, like we are. Be very careful to drill in at the correct angle to avoid misalignment.
Attach apron
Place the leaf in the table and lock it in place with the dowel pins. Mark out the placement of the apron (E) on the leaf so it lines up and mirrors the apron on the table. Attach the top edge of the apron (E) to the underside of the endcap (D) with 1/4-in. dowels using dowel centers. Glue, clamp and allow to dry.
Attach the edge detail
Most tables have an edge detail that is simply routed along the edge of the table top. For this table, there was actually a molding piece with a 30-degree bevel attached to the sides of it, which we needed to match. Using a track saw to ensure a straight line, cut a 30-degree bevel on your trim piece (F) to match the existing table. Then, dial in its width at the table saw and cut it to length at the miter saw. Stain it to match and attach it to the edge of the end cap (E) on both ends of the leaf with glue and a 23-gauge nail gun so it aligns with the bevel on the rest of the table.
Finishing touches
Once all pieces have been put together, touch up any holes with wood filler and stain. Apply at least two coats of oil-based polyurethane to the entire leaf, sanding between coats. The golden tone of an oil-based sealer will help achieve a better color match between the new drop leaf and an older table.
FAQ
How wide is a leaf for a table?
Additional extendable table leaves are usually available in 12-in. and 18-in. lengths. Often used in pairs and based on the capacity of your table, you may use one or two leaves at a time.
What is a butterfly leaf dining table?
A butterfly leaf table folds into itself and tucks under the tabletop when stored away. The name “butterfly leaf” is derived from the look of the leaf, which is made of two pieces that fold open in half when being used. This design eliminates the need for additional storage for separate leaves and allows the table to expand quickly for more seating.
Why is a table extender called a leaf?
Early versions of a table extender looked like plant leaves when folded down, also known as drop leaves. The name then came to be used for any flat, removable table extender. Easier to use the term “table leaf” than “table extender.”
