These wooden "bridges" let you create lots of big openings without weakening the walls.
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These wooden "bridges" let you create lots of big openings without weakening the walls.
Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. We may earn a commission from your purchases.Learn more.
Whether remodeling, adding on or building “from scratch,” building strong, stable walls is a priority of any construction project. Then, opening after opening is cut into these walls to accommodate windows, entry doors and patio doors we love.
Strange, yes. But if these openings are created correctly, we never have to fear that our walls or houses will collapse. And that “right way” means using the structural support system that has been developed over the years to keep houses solid and happy.
Ahead, find pro-tips and advice about how to frame a window from contractor Gerda Swedowsky and Randall Roberts from Window Works.

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Window headers are beams that provide structural support across open spans in window framing. They allow openings for windows without weakening a wall.
A door header is the same as a window header, but bridges the gap in wall framing for a door opening.
The longer the distance a header spans and the heavier the load it supports, the more substantial it needs to be. Undersized headers will bow downward, pinching windows and doors and making them difficult to operate.
Headers for large openings are constructed with engineered wood products that are designed to span longer distances and carry greater loads.
Headers take the weight of the materials and occupants above and transfer it via the trim studs down to the floors and foundations below.
In most wood-frame dwellings, headers are thick beams constructed of dimensional lumber installed on the edge. These headers are supported on each end by vertical pillars (normally composed of 2x4s or 2x6s) called king studs and jack studs.
The king studs nailed into the end of each header and the jack studs that butt just under the header on each end combine to create a sturdy support column.
Together, the headers, king studs and jack studs act as a system that transfers weight from above, down and around the window and door openings to the floor and foundation.
Longer headers and those supporting more weight may require additional jack studs. “The number is determined by the width of the opening and the amount of weight above it,” Roberts says. “It’s usually one or two on each side.”

Most headers are built of two pieces of dimensional lumber and a spacer board for added width to match the surrounding framing. These three boards are then “nailed together in a regular pattern so that they are essentially one piece of wood,” Swedowsky says. The spacer is often plywood or rigid foam board.
Do you need headers on non-load-bearing walls?
“You do not need headers on non-load-bearing walls,” Swedowsky says. On a non-load-bearing wall, a single 2×4 laid flat across the top of the window opening is sufficient. “Although it is nice to double that 2×4, so that you have solid nailing for your trim,” Swedowsky says.
“There is really no difference between a window header and a door header,” Swedowsky says. However, window headers work in conjunction with sills and cripple studs, which door headers do not.
Sills establish the bottoms of window rough openings (the clear opening required for installing windows and doors). Cripple studs support the space between the window sill and the bottom nailing plate.
Cripple studs are sometimes added above a window or door header to fill the gap between the header and top nailing plate.
Calculating header size is complicated, but determined DIYers can use the International Residential Code, which provides tables and charts. “One can enter the data based on the application and find the properly sized header using dimensional lumber,” Roberts says.
You have to take into account:
Instead of wading into all the technicalities, my advice is this when building a header to frame a window: